Kimberly Reed Photography

Phnom Penh, Cambodia- day 3

December 15, 2008

• tagged along with Tim as he met with Tina Wussland of the National Task Force against Human Trafficking (NTF) in the afternoon to discuss (and arrange interviews with) key governmental players in the task force.

• met Athena Pond from Transitions Global in the evening. She and her husband James saw a special on Dateline NBC several years ago on the sex trade in Cambodia, and felt compelled to do something. So James quit his job, and they sold almost everything they owned to move the family to Cambodia to open a transitional housing facility for girls rescued from brothels. James and Athena have since moved back to the states, and Athena was in town to meet with the girls and staff and check on things at the center. The girls were getting ready to take a yoga class, so I took some photographs for James and Athena to use to help promote Transitions.

• After that, it was off for a dinner of suki soup with a group of NGO girls that Tim knows from the last time he was here. Real gender disparity in the NGO realm from what I've seen; it's totally a female dominated field. I still haven't slept more than a few hours in a row in almost 5 days now, so I'm totally zoning out and not great company. Hopefully I'll meet them again when I'm more alert and can form coherent thoughts.

Some images from the day:

Our tuk tuk (pronounced took-took) driver this afternoon had really personalized his ride. There were dozens of keychains, plastic flowers, flags, and even a little Bert doll from Sesame Street. I'm keeping an eye out for a velvet Elvis painting for him- I think he could find a special spot for it.

I made the mistake of asking why so many people wear surgical masks. ' There is a high amount of fecal coliform in the air here, among other pollutants.' Note to self; don't ask any more questions.

Girls from Transitions Global attend a yoga class. Transitions provides comprehensive aftercare for victims of sex trafficking, providing, among other things: shelter, counseling, medical and dental care, art therapy and yoga, and job skills.

The menu at the suki soup joint. Of special note are the fish head, beef bowels, pig's kidney, pig's heart, and pig's intestine. Three guesses if any of those ended up in my soup.

Phnom Penh, Cambodia- day 2, part 2

December 14, 2008

After heading back to the hotel, I met up with my friend Tim Matsui who is here producing media related to trafficking. This makes for the perfect time for a little backstory about how I ended up in Cambodia. (warning: fragmented, rambling story ahead).

So I've wanted to do documentary photography for some time now. Specifically, I wanted to tell the stories of people whose voice otherwise may not be heard, and I wanted to focus on areas outside of the US. With no formal training in photography or journalism (my degree is in graphic design) and no real documentary portfolio, I had a hard time finding any work that would produce a viable income stream. I had been working random jobs for several years, and always doing photography on the side, waiting for 'some day' to take the leap into full time. And then my sister was diagnosed with leukemia. She was 30 years old...so young...and that was a huge wake up call for me. I thought if I knew this was my dream, I couldn't keep putting it off for 'someday', because who knows what the future holds? So I took the leap and started my business, and figured I had to at least give it a shot. I started out doing a little bit of everything, and ended up falling in love with wedding photography. I made that my focus with the intention of taking time in the 'off season' to pursue photography projects that inspire and encourage social change. That was almost two and a half years ago.

Sometime in the beginning of the year I stumbled upon the travel blog of a couple who spent several weeks traveling throughout Asia. While I love to travel, Asia has never really been on my radar...until I saw Rebecca's posts about their time in Cambodia. Before that, I probably wouldn't have been able to find Cambodia on a map, but I was really intrigued by her photos and the organizations that they worked with while they were here. I started doing a little more research, and was horrified by some of the stories I was reading. I decided that I wanted to come to Cambodia to help raise awareness about some of the issues facing this country and it's people. Finding someone to come with me, however, was more daunting task. After asking around for a few weeks, I decided to just go ahead and book my plane ticket and figure out the details later. Not my first choice, but I'd rather go by myself then not go at all. Like any good Facebooker, I updated my status to reflect I had just booked my flight to Cambodia.

Tim is a photojournalist who lives in Seattle, I met him last year when I photographed his sister's wedding. We chatted a bit at the wedding and sent a few emails afterwords in regard to his nonprofit, but didn't stay in close touch. As luck (or fate?) would have it, Tim and I are Facebook friends, so when he saw on Facebook that I had booked a ticket to Cambodia, he sent me a message asking when I'd be here, as he was going to be in Cambodia as well. I took a peek at his blog, and saw that he had been here several months prior, doing exactly the kind of work I was interested in. He came back this November to finish up some work and stories he started in the beginning of the year. After a few emails and a phone call, it seemed like the stars had aligned for me, and I suddenly knew someone who was going to be in Cambodia at the same time I was, had similar interests, had already been doing work in the areas I wanted to, and was totally cool with showing me around and making some introductions. Seriously, what are the chances of that?

So Tim and I met up and made plans to meet up for dinner and drinks with some guys from SISHA (South East Asia Investigations into Social and Humanitarian Activities). One of the things SISHA does is investigative and undercover work to gather evidence that will lead to convictions. We went to a series of 'girlie bars', which started out a little tame and ended up with girls dancing on poles. They were specifically looking for girls that were underaged, or there against their will, since actually working at one of these places isn't a crime, and many of the women are there by choice. There simply aren't a lot of employment opportunities for women here, and this line of work pays very well in comparison to say, working in a garment factory. (As a side note, the number of middle aged white men in these places was really creepy.) It was eye-opening for me to see a little slice of the sex trade here, even though it was more of the PG version, at least comparatively. I really appreciated the opportunity to spend the evening with a group of guys who have dedicated their lives to helping trafficking victims, and witness a small part of what they do.

Phnom Penh, Cambodia- day 2

December 10, 2008

I slept almost a full 8 hours my second night here. I needed it- the crazy travel schedule plus the time change is making me grumpy. Still, I woke up around 3 or 4am local time and couldn't get back to sleep. I hope to be on a regular sleep schedule within the next few days. Did some more touristy things; went to the killing fields memorial outside of town, then to the Russian Market.

Cambodia experienced a massive genocide in the 70's under the Khmer Rouge regime of Pol Pot. During this time, millions of Cambodians were killed- almost a third of the population. The Killing Fields memorial stands at the site of what was once a series of mass graves. The monument itself is filled with the skulls, bone fragments and clothing of thousands of the bodies exhumed from the site. Many of the skulls are grouped according to age and gender; females ages 15-20, females over 60...It's quite emotional to experience.

Bullets were expensive, so many of the men and women were bludgeoned to death.

after the Killing Fields I went to the Russian Market, which is a huge indoor market with food stalls, clothing, cds, shoes, books, car parts, bulk fabrics...you name it. It's hot, congested, and narrow- totally not my bag. Wandered around for a little while and then went back to the hotel. Day 2 part 2 coming up next...

Phnom Penh, Cambodia- day 1

December 7, 2008

For my first day in Phnom Penh, I hired a tuk tuk for the afternoon and spent some time visiting some tourist sights. A tuk tuk is basically a little open air cart driven by a guy on a moterbike. Traffic in Cambodia is crazy- I've seen one or two traffic signals, but haven't seen anyone who obeys them. It's basically a free-for-all of people on bicyles, motorbikes, tuk tuks, and cars and trucks. It's not uncommon to see an entire family (mom, dad, and two kids) on a bike the size equivalent of a vespa. Everyone is darting and weaving in and out, and at any given moment the person in front of you could stop, change lanes, or cut across all of the lanes to make a turn with no warning. Crossing the street is no different- you basically wait for small break in traffic and then start walking. Everyone just steers around you. (If my parents are reading this- not to worry: when I leave the hotel I'm covered in bubble wrap, wearing a helmet, and carrying an air bag).

View from the tuk tuk:

First stop was Wat Phnom,

and then Wat Ounalom

There is an eyebrow hair of Buddha in here. You're just going to have to take my word for it.

I think he's asking me to leave here.

then off to the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda

{December 8, 2008 1:07 PM} Kim said: So cool! Hope you're having fun and remember to look both ways before crossing the street...although maybe it would be better if you just didn't look. =)

{December 8, 2008 2:09 PM} Joanne Bartone Photographer said: FANTASTIC,WONDERFUL, AWESOME photographs!!!!! keep up the GREAT work - I WANT MORE!!!!!!!! BIG love, Joanne Bartone, Photographer www.joannebartone.com

{December 8, 2008 2:14 PM} Woy said: Honestly, these photos are sensational. I feel like I'm actually there seeing things with you.

{December 8, 2008 2:50 PM} Jeremy Ganss said: Hey Kim, I didn't know you were going on a wonderful world travel. . . Please be safe and bring me something back cool. :) I'll pay ya back for it. . .Would love to add a trinket to my office from there. . Already have, Africa, Greece, Egypt, Norway, Australia, Philippines - HOOK A BROTHA UP - YO. miss ya lots. . -jeremy

{December 8, 2008 5:16 PM} Kate said: I currently have THE BEST mental image of you wrapped in bubble wrap wearing a helmet and waddling across the street - kind of like Ralphie's little brother in his snow suit from "Christmas Story"!! HAHAHA!! Hope you're having a fabulous time!! xox.

{December 8, 2008 8:09 PM} Eileen said: Glad you made it safely. You're hilarious but I'm pretty sure that once you rip the airbag out of a car to be able to carry with you, it no longer functions correctly. :) We went to Spain last month. Great trip until I got sick. Beautiful pictures by the way. Love how you captured life there so that we could all see a little of what you are seeing. Hugs!

{December 8, 2008 8:16 PM} lyndsay said: breathtaking! I love all the perfect symmetry in the design of the buildings. It's amazing people's hands did that.

{December 8, 2008 11:03 PM} Scott said: Kimberly, Sorry about the difficulties during your travels to Phnom Penh, but wow, these are great photos. Keep 'em coming!

{December 9, 2008 11:52 AM} Dad said: Let me know if you need me to ship more bubble wrap or an extra helmet.....your photos are great!!

{December 9, 2008 1:18 PM} Leah said: Hey Kim these photos are absolutely amazing!!! I am so glad that you are finally getting to fulfill your dream of visiting Cambodia. Stay Safe. I'm sure the helmet and bubble wrap will help with that. HaHa.

{December 10, 2008 8:53 PM} Jaci Clark said: Oh my! These images are fantastic. I'm thoroughly enjoying them and your stories and can't wait to hear more in person! Hope you're accomplishing all that you set out to do. Cheers, Jaci

in Phnom Penh

December 6, 2008

I finally made it! It's about 8:30am on Sunday here, I arrived in Phnom Penh last night around 11pm. Some more observations from my travels:

-There appeared to be a large herd of cats outside of my hotel window in Seoul. Do cats travel in herds? These ones were loud, and angry. I suspect they were in a gang.

-Once I landed in Phnom Penh, took a taxi to my hotel to discover that they didn't have a reservation for me. I got a room last night, but it's unclear whether I'll have one tonight or not. Keep your fingers crossed.

-Same key-activated light switch as in Seoul. I was ready for it this time.

-The ceiling in my room is about 6 foot tall, tops. Good thing I'm short.

-A rooster crowing woke me up this morning around 3am. While normally a pacifist, I longed for a bb gun.

-My hotel room: very small and narrow. 2 floors, enter on the first floor, pass the bathroom, go up the stairs to the bedroom. The walls are very, very thin. Throughout the night, it sounded like multiple people came in the room, went into the bathroom, and took a shower. It's difficult to get a good night's sleep when you suspect a stranger is in your shower.

-I don't think I've gotten more than 2 hours of sleep in a row since I left Pittsburgh. That's got to catch up with me soon.

-Not sure what's on the agenda for today. Perhaps some touristy things? Definitely some photos. Stay tuned.

en route

December 5, 2008

I'm in Seoul right now, about 10 hours in to a 24-hour layover before my flight to Phnom Penh. A few observations and notes from my travels so far:

-Out of 3 total flights to get from Pittsburgh to Phnom Penh, all 3 were changed from the time I originally booked the tickets. 2 of them were changed at the airport when I arrived. Air travel is frustrating.

-I've never travelled internationally by myself before, and I'll admit, I was/am a little nervous about it. A few minor hiccups so far, but overall not too bad. So while I'd rather have a travel buddy, if it's between going alone or not going, I'll go alone.

-On my flight from Pittsburgh to San Francisco, beverage service was only available for purchase! I know airlines have been getting stingy with meals lately, but I was disappointed to see I had to pay $2 for water on a 5 hour flight. Tsk tsk, US Air.

-There were a surprising number of people at the airport bar at 8am.

-Those little blow-up travel pillows that are shaped like toilet seats? Priceless. So I look totally dorky- it saves me from hunching over and drooling on my seatmate when I fall asleep. Which I'm sure he appreciates as much as I do.

-When I arrived in Seoul and got my checked bag, the pull-out handle on my rolling suitcase was busted. Crap.

-I have a 24 hour layover in Seoul, which is the result of changes and delays with my flights. Because of that, I had a voucher from the airline for a hotel and meals during the layover. Very nice of them and very much appreciated. All I needed to do was find the Asiana information desk in the Seoul airport to pick it up. Easier said then done. After a little wandering (dragging my busted suitcase) and a few wrong directions, I ended up at an Asiana ticketing counter. A very nice employee notified me that I was at the wrong counter, on the wrong floor, but instead of just pointing me in the right direction, she walked with me to the correct place. I could have kissed her. Kudos to you, Asiana Airlines, for your exceptional customer service.

-It took me- literally- 10 minutes of fumbling around in the dark trying to figure out how to turn the light on in my hotel room. No switches anywhere when you first walk in. No floor lamps. Two switches by the bathroom that aren't working. It turns out there's a magnetic pad inside the door that you need to insert your room keychain into which activates a master light. From there, the light switches work, and some are activated by the tv remote. No signs anywhere stating that, no one mentioned it to me when I was checking in. I came very close to giving up and embracing the darkness.

-This lack of sleep/ time change/ multiple long flights thing is kicking my butt. Overall though- holy crap, I'm really doing this. Living a dream. As crazyexcitingscaryexhilarating as it is.

my poor busted suitcase (don't judge me for the picture quality, this was taken from the webcam on my laptop):

The quote book

December 2, 2008

Micellaneous factoid about me: In college, I started collecting quotes. They were funny, quirky, profound, absurd, inspiring- from world leaders and authors and friends and professors and strangers on the street. I wrote them down and kept them in a little planner, which I still have.

I've always enjoyed bite-sized bits of wisdom, or sarcasm, or some random truth that I find particular meaning in. I recently stumbled upon Jack Pidgeon's commencement address at Kiski High School and wanted to share. I particularly dug this nugget of wisdom:

"You don't have to have been born with talent or brains or special abilities or a capacity for leadership. You don't even have to have been born tough. The happiest fact of life is that the one ingredient we need the most is ours for the taking. All you have to do to acquire it is this: beginning today, stop doing something you shouldn't do and start doing each day something you know you should do."

To read the whole thing, go here.

Obscurae Photography Exhibition and Art Lottery

December 2, 2008

There's a gallery show in Braddock this weekend that I'll have a few prints in. I know several of the other photographers who are participating, and it looks like it will be a cool event. Food + Art + Supporting a great cause = you should go and have a great time. Bring a friend, or make one there.

Here's the info from their press release:
OBSCURAE Photography Exhibition & Art Lottery Event
Fundraiser sponsored by Braddock Redux hosted at the UnSmoke Systems Gallery
1137 Braddock Avenue, Braddock, PA
Curated by: Jenny Fremlin & Jodi Morrison, with special guest curator John Ryan Brubaker

Friday, December 5, 2008: Public Viewing / Preview Reception 7pm-11pm
Saturday, December 6, 2008: Public Viewing: 2pm ; Art Lottery: 4 – 7pm

Lottery Tickets: $45 through website; $55 at the Door
www.obscuraegallery.org

Art Photography Featuring Braddock Will Be Raising Funds for Community Projects

Braddock Redux, a community based non-profit, announces its sponsorship of a two-day photography exhibition/fundraiser, The event, OBSCURAE, will occur on Friday, December 5 and Saturday, December 6, 2008. Benefiting the group’s continuing revitalization efforts of this historic steel mill town, OBSCURAE features more than 125 donated and framed photographs of Braddock from over 25 photographers that ticket holders will win and take home at the OBSCURAE art photography lottery. Public viewing of the work, open to all and free of charge, begins Friday from 7 – 11pm and continues Saturday at 2pm; the art lottery commences at 4pm Saturday. Those attending OBSCURAE, held at UnSmoke Systems Gallery at 1137 Braddock Avenue, are invited to take part in the gallery’s interactive photo booth designed by installation artist Merissa Lombardo and taste fresh-baked pizza by Josh Tonies made in Braddock’s very own outdoor wood-fire community oven located next to UnSmoke Systems. There is no charge to attend OBSCURAE and view the exhibition; visitors wishing to take home a work of art can purchase lottery tickets for $45 through the website, www.obscuraegallery.org, or for $55 at the door. The lottery offers supporters the opportunity to contribute to Braddock art and community projects with a partially tax-deductible ticket purchase. At the same time, supporters will be able to enjoy the exhibit, local food and drinks, the photo booth installation, AND leave with a limited edition framed art photograph. Photographs included in the lottery range from 8x10 to 13x19 and are mounted and framed using a variety of reclaimed materials. All pieces are stunning to display or give as a gift this holiday season.

Change is underway in Braddock as groups working with and within the community bring renewed energy to a town that many wrote off. Inspired by the town’s potential for grassroots urban renewal, many artists, social entrepreneurs, community organizers, urban homesteaders and others with a pioneering spirit are using the inherent energy in Braddock to fuel their creativity. It is with this spirit that OBSCURAE views the maligned town – turning a photographic eye towards the borough’s oft-overlooked beauty and the spaces amidst the former grandeur and “urban blight” that Braddock has come to represent for many in the Pittsburgh area.

Curated by Braddock residents Jenny Fremlin and Jodi Morrison, with special guest curator John Ryan Brubaker, OBSCURAE pays homage to Braddock’s unique post-industrial urban beauty. From the borough’s Victorian and industrial-era construction to particulars of its natural surroundings, each photograph captures a unique perspective of the town. Works are mounted and framed with found-materials from the community. In creating OBSCURAE, curators Fremlin and Morrison hope to encourage others to look deeper and appreciate the small wonders that drew them to Braddock. “The energy in Braddock is amazing, from the support of our neighbors who are long-time Braddock residents to curious people dropping in there is always something happening in this town. All of that activity and more is captured in the photographs that have been submitted by these brilliant photographers who have explored here and chosen to help the town that inspired their art by participating in this event” said Fremlin.

unwrapped 2008

November 23, 2008

I had the great pleasure of photographing Unwrapped, the Union Project's annual fundraiser to celebrate the programming and arts that happen there. It's always a great time and this year was no exception. I've got to give props to Hilary Brown and her staff of over 50 volunteers who worked tirelessly to pull the event together. Also, my dear friend Simone Hudson of 5 Senses Events helped with coordination and event design this year, and all of the fabulous florals were courtesy of the talented (and super sweet) April of Mocha Rose. Without further ado, I've compiled a montage of some of the details from Saturday evening:

You can also view a slideshow of the event by clicking on this photo:

countdown to Cambodia

November 23, 2008

Soooo...I've been a bad blogger. Many apologies, but I pinky swear it's been for a good reason! The past few weeks I've been preparing to go to Cambodia to photograph for some non-profit organizations. Cambodia is a real hotbed for sex-trafficking and forced prostitution, with thousands of women and girls (as young as 5!), being sold into sexual slavery. I've felt compelled for some time now to give back to the global community, and am thrilled to have the opportunity to work with some amazing organizations to help raise awareness of critical issues.

The last thirty days have been spent renewing my passport, applying for a visa, dealing with flight changes, emailing contacts, getting my typhoid, hep a/b, malaria, polio, meningococcal conjugate, and tetanus/diphtheria/pertussis immunizations, new glasses and contacts, more epi pens (I'm allergic to peanuts), and the myriad other details that need to be worked out for a trip like this.

I'm not sure what my internet connectivity is going to be like, so I hope to be able to keep my blog updated while I'm gone, but have to wait and see when I get there. I'm leaving in less than two weeks, so if you are a current client and need to have anything ordered for the holidays, I need to have your order in by November 28. The office is going to be closed from December 2-28.